2021 | Vieux Château Certan

Pomerol

This is once again a fantastic effort from one of the leading Pomerol estates. According to Alexandre Thienpont, this vintage brings us back to the classic Bordeaux wines of the past; not only are the alcohol percentages lower, but also the subtlety of the aromas and freshness are old-fashioned. Made from a blend of 77% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, Guillaume Thienpont used as much Cabernet as he could. In the nose, aromas of graphite are intertwined with dark fruit notes of blackberries and blueberries. On the palate, the Cabernets take a leading role with beautiful precise, juicy fruit which wraps around the fine, well integrated tannins. Intense and elegant in the finish. Alexandre & Guillaume once again succeed in presenting one of the great wines of the vintage. Max. 24 btls.

Drink from 2030 till 2065

About

SKU 2021095-00375
Vintage 2021
Country France
Region Bordeaux
Appellation Pomerol
Color Red
Volume 0,375l
Alcohol 13,5%

Food pairing

  • Feathered game
  • Hard cheese
  • Red meat

The story

Château

Vieux Château Certan

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Grandfather Georges Thienpont bought Vieux Château Certan with his wife Josephine in the spring of 1924. The 14 hectares of vineyards have remained virtually unchanged since the purchase, with the exception of a small parcel of 11.48 ares that Alexandre Thienpont added later. The vineyard comprises 23 individual plots: the clay soils are planted with 70% Merlot, the clay-gravel plots with 25% Cabernet Franc, and the gravel soils with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The average age of the vines is over 50 years.

In June 2024, we celebrated the 100th anniversary of this exceptional estate's Thienpont ownership with a vertical tasting of 58 vintages, many of which were bottled in the cellars of the family home, Hof te Cattebeke in Etikhove. Over the decades, the vinification has been carried out by successive members of the family: Georges Thienpont, then his son Léon, his grandson Alexandre, and today it is Alexandre's son Guillaume who vinifies the wine. Vieux Château Certan has reached its golden age and is recognised the world over for its purity, elegance and fruity character, typical of the supple, complex style of the Pomerol plateau. Our selection

Producer

Alexandre & Guillaume Thienpont

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Vieux Château Certan is certainly the most beautiful and historic château in Pomerol. The name is said to date back to the 12th century where it was recorded as “Sertan”. The estate was created in the 16th century by the Scottish family de May while the name “Vieux Château Certan” has existed since 1745. The Château is a magnificent “chartreuse” situated in the heart of the famous Pomerol plateau. In 1858, the estate was sold to Charles de Bousquet who completely renovated the château. It’s appearance has remained unchanged ever since – even with its odd towers that flank the north and south sides of the château; one with a slate roof and the other with terracotta tiles.

Vieux Château Certan has been owned by the Thienpont family since 1924. After the death Georges Thienpont in 1962, the estate was run by one of his sons, Léon Thienpont. During this period the vineyards were completely renovated and much replanting was carried out after the Great Frost of 1956. In 1972 a new chai was installed with large oak fermentation vats made by the Seguin Moreau cooperage which are still in use at the château and were greatly responsible for the return to wooden fermentation vats in many of Bordeaux’s grands crus.

Upon the untimely death of Léon Thienpont in 1985, his son Alexandre took over the estate and moved with his wife and four children into the château. Alexandre’s education was completely dedicated to wine. Apart from oenology studies, Alexandre had worked at Château la Gaffelière in Saint Emilion to gain valuable wine making experience.

Helped by continued investments from the family, Alexandre has continued to improve and build on the Thienpont tradition of winemaking excellence. His modesty and unassuming manner hide the pride and sense of deep responsibility he has in running Vieux Château Certan. He lives and works for his wine and is known in Bordeaux as the manager who intimately knows each vine in his 14 hectare vineyard. Two things can lure him away from Pomerol – gliding and endurance cycling in the Pyrenees Mountains. .

Today, Alexandre has been working closely with his son Guillaume whose winemaking studies have taken him all over the world. Guillaume brings a modern vision to Certan and a technical discipline (he has recently built a wine laboratory at Certan) which has permitted the estate to understand the difference in their vineyard parcels more precisely and adapt the winemaking to each terroir.

Today the vineyard comprises 14 hectares in one contiguous plot. The vineyard is planted with 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The high proportion of Cabernet is unusual in Pomerol and belies Certan’s proximity to Château Cheval Blanc which is located just across the road that divides the appellations of Pomerol and Saint Emilion. The terroir at Vieux Château Certan is a mixture of gravel, clay and sand on an ancient plateau which contains a high content of “crasse de fer” (iron oxide). This explains the presence of the three major Bordeaux varieties. Strict pruning leaving only six buds per vine, limited spraying and treatments, green harvest and leaf stripping are part of the vineyard management program at Certan. Harvesting takes place around the middle or end of September with a team of 40 local pickers.

In the cellar, the crop is hand sorted, destemmed and lightly crushed before being fermented in close-top wooden vats with fermentation and maceration lasting around three weeks. Ageing is carried out in new French oak barrels for 18 months. The wine is gently fined with egg whites but never filtered.

Alexandre and Guillaume take great care in the blending of the wine according to the vintage conditions. In years such as 1996 or 2000, the Cabernets ripened beautifully making up the full compliment in the blend. In vintages such as 1998, it is the Merlots that dominate. Barrels that are not judged of sufficiently high enough quality for the “Grand Vin” are used to produce a second label, “La Gravette” or sold off as generic Pomerol. Approximately 45,000 to 60,000 bottles are produced each year.

Under Alexandre, Vieux Château Certan has reached its golden age. For centuries, considered among the top châteaux of Pomerol, the wines have received world wide acclaim for their purity, elegance and rich fruit character, typical of the supple and complex style of the Pomerol plateau. Our selection

Appellation

Pomerol

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Pomerol is one of the smallest appellations in Bordeaux and the only major one that does not have a classification system. This has given the wines of Pomerol a certain liberty, and today it is the price that the international wine trade is prepared to pay that creates the hierarchy in Pomerol. Three wines lead the listing: Lafleur, Pétrus and Le Pin with wines such as La Conseillante, L’Eglise Clinet, Trotanoy and Vieux Chateau Certan following closely behind.

The three leading wines are located on the limestone plateau of Pomerol, close to one another. This small plateau is home to the best wines and forms the epicenter of this 800-hectare appellation. Only three kilometers wide by four kilometers wide, there are about 150 different Pomerol chateaux but around 50 of them have less than one hectare of vines. There are a couple of exceptions, Chateau de Sales, one of the oldest and most beautiful estates with a real “chateau” has 47.5 hectares of vines and both Pétrus and Vieux Chateau Certan have over 12 hectares.

Pomerol remains however a peasant appellation with small houses and cellars and a confusing network of country lanes in which to get lost. It is not the most beautiful corner of Bordeaux, in spite of the worldwide fame of its wines. There is a little village of Catusseau with a decent restaurant, Michel Rolland’s wine laboratory and wine shop and a tobacconist; and the Wine Syndicate, Church and Primary School on the center of the plateau. After its makeover, Pétrus is easier to spot these days but if you do not have inside information, you could spend some frustrating time trying to find Lafleur, L’Eglise Clinet or Le Pin.

Pomerol developed much later than St. Emilion, with the first planted vines dating back to the 18th century. It was on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella as evidenced by the Scallop shell of St. James found on several markers and the region’s wine guild, the Hospitaliers of Pomerol. Thanks to its proximity to the major town of Libourne, Pomerol wines were shipped all over Europe (they are still particularly popular in Belgium) but did not gain the cachet that they hold today until after the Second World War.

The soils of Pomerol are on a bedrock of limestone with sand and gravel top soils. To the north and the west of the appellations, the vineyards are planted on alluvial soils, sand and gravel. Only Pétrus has the anomaly of a basin of blue clay that is unique to the domain. The main grape variety is Merlot (Pétrus and Le Pin are made only from Merlot grapes) with Cabernet Franc as the second most important grape. Cabernet Franc plays an important role in the wines of Lafleur and Vieux Chateau Certan especially.

The wines of Pomerol are prized for their rich fruit flavours, round structure, soft tannins, flavours of chocolate and coffee and their ability to age well. They pair well with game, pork, Ahi tuna, cep mushrooms and of course truffles. Our selection

Grape

Merlot

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A few years ago, an American movie Sideways, mocked the easy charm and ubiquity of Merlot.   Sales in the U.S. tumbled and it seemed as if Merlot’s future was uncertain.   However, on the other side of the Atlantic, Merlot is the most planted grape variety in Bordeaux and its charm, its early ripening and its high sugar levels can explain its success.   Merlot is round and voluptuous when ripe; it envelops the palate with juicy plum fruit, round tannins and a silky texture.  
 
Like its sibling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot makes good wines in a variety of climates and regions. It is easy to grow, producing good yields and more sweet, round fruit often with an opulent character.  It comes to its peak on the plateau of Pomerol where two famous wines, Le Pin and Petrus, are made uniquely from Merlot grapes.  Here, the cooler, water-retentive soils of calcareous clay are ideally suited to Merlot, which requires less heat to ripen than Cabernet Sauvignon.  In Saint Emilion, it is often blended with Cabernet Franc, which lends minty freshness, acidity and tannic structure to the sometimes overly rounded Merlot.   Pomerol can be recognised by its earthy truffle scent while Saint-Emilion wines are more fruit-dominated. Once mature, these wines develop a typically smoky aroma.
 
Merlot’s character is often exploited in blending: in Tuscan Chianti, for instance, soft Merlot rounds Sangiovese’s rougher edges while Vino Nobile di Montepulciano gains extra juiciness and fruit by its addition.  Elsewhere in the world, it is very important in Chile and to a lesser extent in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.  Our selection

Cabernet Franc

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Cabernet Franc, along with the white Sauvignon Blanc is a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon.   It has great fragrance and structure and shines both in the Loire Valley and in Bordeaux blends.  The grape is believed to have originated in the Loire but today the Cabernet Franc grown in the Loire is not believed to be the same variety as that found in Bordeaux.
 
Cabernet Franc has smaller berries, is less densely packed, ripens earlier and requires less heat than Cabernet Sauvignon, although it is very similar in shape.  It is fresher and more fragrant with aromas of redcurrant, menthol and blackcurrant with intense vegetal hints and an herbal finish.   Cabernet Franc thrives especially on Bordeaux’s Right Bank, in the cooler clay soils of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol. Throughout the world, winemakers emulating the Bordeaux blend of grapes, will always plant Cabernet Franc alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
 
The red wines of the Loire, made from 100% Cabernet Franc throughout
Touraine, have achieved high praise of late. Climate change and improved viticultural methods have given quality a real boost here. Particularly wines from Saumur-Champigny, Bourgueil and Chinon are of smooth density and have enticingly fresh red fruit and herbal notes, carried by juicy redcurrant and cherry fruit. In maturity these wines develop aromas of cigar box, truffle and tobacco. Our selection

Cabernet Sauvignon

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Cabernet Sauvignon is synonymous with red Bordeaux where it originated; a wine style so eminent that it is emulated everywhere. This has made Cabernet into a veritable globetrotter, adapting so well to different cultures and climates that it is grown with success throughout the world.   Rather like Chardonnay, the two have become the vanilla and chocolate ice-cream flavours of wine. Interestingly, Cabernet Sauvignon is the offspring of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, the parentage probably happening by accident sometime in the 18th century in Bordeaux.  
 
Cabernet Sauvignon has typical aromas of dark cherries, blackcurrants and green peppers, the latter become more apparent in slightly unripe wines.   As they ripen, the grapes develop aromas of eucalyptus, mint, tobacco and cedar. Cabernet’s thick grape skins are full of phenols that add tannic structure and deep colour to the wine.   In spite of its power, Cabernet Sauvignon is not particularly round and fleshy and can sometimes seem hollow in the middle, a characteristic sometimes called the “donut-effect”.   It is therefore often blended with mouth filling Merlot. Only in warm climates where full ripeness softens Cabernet’s tannic rigour is it bottled on its own.  Its structure also explains its affinity with oak: the additional tannins and toasty aromas of new French oak barrels marry well with the grape. Cabernet Sauvignon develops real interest with bottle age. Oak, Cabernet and its blending partners unite to form a complex, mature bouquet while the tannic grip softens.
 
In Bordeaux, Cabernet is grown on the warm gravelly Left Bank of the
Gironde. It needs warmth to ripen fully and mirrors terroir. Wines from Saint-
Estèphe show grip and intense earthy notes. Pauillac is a benchmark with its balance between power, elegance, opulence and cigar box aromas. Saint-Julien shows mineral definition, pure fruit and linear structure. Margaux is all about silky texture wrapped around firm tannins. Pessac-Léognan from the top of the Graves is lighter with hints of pencil shavings.
 
Cabernet Sauvignon also shines in other well-known wine regions throughout the world:  In Maremma and Bolgheri, coastal Tuscany shares a maritime climate with Bordeaux. Here, Cabernet is successfully blended with both Merlot and Sangiovese.  Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the star varietals in California’s Napa Valley producing wines that are concentrated and extracted often with elevated alcohol levels. Australia’s heartland for Cabernet is Coonawarra: recognizable by its eucalyptus scent, ripe fruit and its savoury tannins, while Margaret River Cabernet is more restrained, elegant and minty. Chilean Cabernet’s blackcurrant aromas virtually jump out of the glass and in South Africa, it is the Cape’s most planted red grape, usually blended with Merlot to make charming wines especially in Stellenbosch and Paarl. Our selection

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2021, Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol
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